Singapore National Climbing Standards SPORT CLIMBING COURSE LEVEL 2 - PowerPoint PPT Presentation

Singapore National Climbing Standards SPORT CLIMBING COURSE LEVEL 2 1 KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077

Passing Standards 1. Confident with lead climbing on an easy route 2. Correct placement of protection points on a lead climb 3. Correct belaying of a lead climber using a friction device 4. Correct top out technique on fixed anchor 5. Conduct proper pre-climb checks 6. Correct use of climbing calls 7. Safe equipment handling 2 KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077

Lead climbing vs Top roping 3 KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077

Fall factor 4 KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077

Ropes Static rope Dynamic rope ▪ Stretch less than 5% ▪ 30-40% dynamic stretch during a fall 5 KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077

Protections Devices employed to reduce risk of climber falling to the ground Quickdraws 1. Quick draws 2. Runners Runners 6 KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077

Quickdraws set up ▪ Quickdraws have a bolt-end and rope-end ▪ Rope-end has a bent or wire gate with a rubber keeper around the carabiner to limit movement ▪ Both bolt-end and rope-end carabiners must be facing the same direction ▪ Choose different colour carabiners for each end for easy differentiation 7 KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077

Quickdraws set up ▪ Always use a quickdraw equipped with STRING type webbing protection ▪ The anchor-end carabiner must be mobile (no keeper). ▪ The rope-end carabiner must be fixed (with keeper). ▪ Warning: never install two keepers on one quickdraw. 8 KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077

Quickdraws set up Bolt-end Rope-end 9 KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077

Wall bolt ▪ Bolts are normally placed on the route at 1 to 2 meters apart 10 KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077

Clipping into protection 11 KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077

Clipping into protection Back clipping 12 KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077

Direction of clipping ▪ Carabiner gate must always face away from the climber's direction of travel ▪ The rope in the carabiner must pass through it from the cliff side to the outside ▪ Incorrect positioning of the quickdraw or the rope could cause the rope to unclip 13 KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077

Clipping into protection Z-clipping ▪ Climber grabs the rope from below the last clipped bolt and then clips it through a higher bolt creating a Z- shape ▪ Climber will not be able to move up due to rope drag ▪ Climber will take a bigger fall as he is not protected by the last quick draw Solution ▪ Undo Z-clip by unclipping the rope from the lower draw 14 KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077

Leg position when leading Do not place your leg behind the rope 15 KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077

Top out technique 1 16 KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077

Top out technique 2 17 KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077

Lead belay How to lead belay – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_F1MfVGOzk 18 KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077

Lead fall How to lead fall – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RJZ8OxYP5T4 19 KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077

Pre-climb checks 1. Know the length of the route ▪ Rope must be at lease twice the length of the route ▪ 60m to 70m rope are the most common 2. Check the number of bolts on the route 3. Bring sufficient quickdraws for the route with at lease 1 extra 4. Climber to bring along a safety sling and 2 carabiner (to set up top rope) 5. Run the entire rope through your hand to check for damage and remove rope kinks 6. Buddy checks on figure of 8 knot and fiction device carabiner is locked 20 KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077

Lead climbing commands Climber Belayer Calls Actions Calls Actions On rope (Climber tied on to rope) Climb when ready Climbing (Climber ready to climb) Climb on (Belayer acknowledge) Clipping (Clipping into the first draw) Clipped (Clipped into first draw) On Belay Watch me (May fall on the next move) Watching (Prepare to catch fall) Tight / Take (Climber need to rest) Tight (Belayer take in till tight) Safe (When climber clip in his safety) Slack (Climber needs slack to top out) Slack (Give slack to climber) Off belay (Climber is safe wants to be off belay) Off Belay (Go off belay) 21 KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077