Mounting Stereo Slides This booklet includes articles that have been published in 4E ! X JOEPX ! the Bulletin of the Sydney Stereo Camera Club website: www.oz3d.info by Allan Griffin and Ray Moxom edited by Ray Moxom, Sydney Australia e-mail: raymoxom@tpg.com.au
Selecting the Best Stereo Mount � 33x23 Mounting Stereo Slides � 21x23 Part 1 28x23 � Direct Mounting into Card Mounts by � 31.5x23 Allan Griffin � 30x20 HonPSA, FPSA 16x21 � IMPORTANT NOTE: The fundamentals explained in this section by � 30x15 Allan Griffin for cardboard mounts, particularly Mount sizes shown are from the those relating to the all important “ stereo RBT range - sizes are in millimetres. Which mount would you have window ” and the diagrams on page 8, also selected for this image? apply to mounting in RBT mounts. Photograph by Nancy Moxom Page 2 Page 15
Mounting Stereo Slides - Direct Mounting into Card The RBT Plastic Mount Two Way Adjustment System by Allan Griffin HonPSA FPSA Mounts The illustrations below show the rear (black) half of the mount. After the film chips are aligned, the front (white or ) half of the mount is pressed on to From time to time mounting in card mounts has been taught at the Club as the rear half. I find a small pair of pliers useful to clamp the two halves of well as privately. However, in view of the fact that we now have quite a few the mount together. new members, it is appropriate that we again discuss the fundamentals of Firm fixing and adjustment is provided by the use of plastic “pin-bars” mounting direct into card. However, it should be remembered that stereo which fit nicely into the top and bottom recessed rails. The film chips fit workers tend to develop their own pet technique, and that is good, so long as over accurate “pins” on the pin-bars. There are marks on one side of the pin- the end criteria is met, namely: bars which permit them to be placed as illustrated to achieve a vertical a. That you fully understand and can see the “stereo window” as a variation of from zero (1) to 0.4mm plane in your stereo slide. (5) in 0.1mm increments. (There are alternative pin bars available that allow b. That the “window” is used as the primary reference for projection adjustments in approximately 0.2mm mounting. Accurate increments to 0.7mm). c. That a strict watch is kept on an accurate baseline. (Accurate baseline or vertical registration is horizontal alignment and absence of “twist”). achieved by working to a proven jig / d. That the film chips are fastened properly with quality adhesive grid mounting system or by trial and tape. error, checking progress in your stereoscope (viewer). Free-viewing e. That the completed and closed mount is carefully taped or glued can also confirm baseline accuracy, so as not to destroy the accurate horizontal seat when placed in the particularly if enlarging lenses are projector. used. The most useful non-projection Now, let us get our Gear Ready Here are some items: jigs have a light-box under and a pair of lenses over. 1. Some kind of light box over which we can work. When it comes to adjusting for 2. In due course we should plan to have some kind of jig in order to horizontal position, move the chips make our work less tedious. However, in the meantime, we can on their pin-bars left/right according make good steady headway without a jig. A thumb gauge will do to your already proven and preferred for starters in applying a reference line. method, being careful not to violate 3. Choose your favourite adhesive tape (a) to fix chips, and (b) to the stereo window. As soon as you bind slide mount. Ideal binding tape does not exude adhesive with are satisfied with the adjustment of time and is thin. the film chips, just press the other 4. A film cutter is very useful, particularly with Realist format where half of the mount into place on its frame lines are virtually non-existent compared with 7 and 8 locating pins. The mount can be sprocket sizes. easily reopened at any time. 5. A freshly sharpened pencil for fine-tuning the alignment/window. 6. Cotton gloves are generally recommended in order to avoid finger prints on film. I personally don’t use them, but opt rather to use The above diagram was originally published in the September 1991 issue of Stereoscopy Page 14 Page 3
clean hands/fingers. For this option, wash hands with hot water Half Glass Mounts and soap before starting and as often as perspiration and/or skin RBT also have a range of half glass mounts. The glass is only used on the oils start to cause the first sign of any marks. In any case, avoid front side of the mount. While this might give some degree of protection to touching picture areas as much as possible. A clean cloth will the film, the rear (emulsion) side remains unprotected. The unglassed remove the odd inadvertent mark if done promptly. emulsion side of the film ensures that the auto-focus in RBT projectors functions seamlessly for a mixed half glassed and unglassed show. 7. Tweezers. Many people avoid finger prints by never touching the film chips, but rather, always use tweezers for handling. Moisture from the air can become trapped between the single glass and the film resulting in moisture patterns on the projected image and possible 8. Hand viewer to check progress. damage to the slides. This is a potential problem with warmer running older 9. Red spots from newsagent. Attach to front lower left corner. projectors and is not a problem with the cooler running RBT Projectors. 10. If to be titled etc., the standard format is: Title on Front. Name on While several exhibitions now use RBT projectors (including ISU, DGS, Back. Ohio and Southern Cross), I would recommend that unglassed RBT mounts be used for exhibition slides. If the slide is of particular value, then use a Now We are Ready to Start quality dupe when entering exhibitions. Keep in mind that the easiest dupe is Once you get into business, your jig and light box are built as an integral always the ‘in camera dupe’ that you create by taking more than one shot unit. The better ones also sport a pair of lenses so that you can see your when you shoot the original. slide in 3-D as you make your final adjustment for proper window. We will assume that you have no jig but that you do have a light box. All a jig does is hold the mount firm and supply a film base line approx 3mm from the Fixing Minor Twist edge of the mount. In your case, use a thumb gauge or other to draw a pencil The description on the next page of the RBT two way adjustment system line 3mm from edge of mount so as to place film chip central over aperture, will cover the majority of shots taken with a stereo camera or a well aligned but first take a good look at the mount. Its front is marked with a couple of twin rig. But, perhaps our wide based twin rig was a little out of line indent lines for title. Hold it closed with fold at top. This is the best resulting in one film chip having a slight twist relative to the other. This can orientation for projection. Now, open mount and mark bottom inside front be fixed as follows: with an X. You are to attach chips to back of front half. Lay the open 1. Fix the first chip in the normal way mount face down on light box so that you can attach film chips to back of 2. For the other chip, cut an RBT pin bar into three so that there is one front half. Draw the 3mm gauge line along bottom edge. chip pin on each "mini pin bar" Arrange the chips face down so that when mounted and turned over, they 3. Use two "mini pin bars" for the chip that needs to be rotated - turn will be on their appropriate side properly orientated. Attach the chips to the the "mini pin bar" and/or have one on the top rail and one on the reference line, at the same time making certain that they are in proper bottom rail to get the required rotation. (Normal pin bars allow relationship to each other so that the plane of the window is just in front of adjustments of up to 0.4mm in 0.1mm increments.) the nearest item in the stereo picture, unless you especially want to bring a 4. I found it easier to use the alternative pin bars that allow adjustments suitable element in the stereo through-the window. This latter case we will in approximately 0.2mm increments to a total of 0.7mm. consider to be the exception. It is normal, without a jig complete with lenses, to simply pop your slide into your hand viewer to check its accuracy. Once I had done a couple I found that procedure was quick and worked Now here is a tip for adjusting one or both chips assuming they are not quite perfectly. I also found it best to make any height adjustment with the chip right first try. I again use the sharp pencil and draw a reference mark around that was not rotated. A similar procedure can be applied to both left and right the chip where appropriate, and after removing the chip, fix it down again in chips to correct slightly sloping horizons. new position in relation to reference mark. Page 4 Page 13
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