TALES OF THE TRADES: A PRESENTATION OF FACTS CONCERNING THE MAKING OF ARTICLES IN EVERYDAY USE Download Free Author: Merchants & Travelers Association, Merchants and Travelers Association Number of Pages: 104 pages Published Date: 30 Sep 2007 Publisher: Kessinger Publishing Publication Country: Whitefish MT, United States Language: English ISBN: 9780548487471 Download Link: CLICK HERE
Tales Of The Trades: A Presentation Of Facts Concerning The Making Of Articles In Everyday Use Read Online Вы всегда добиваетесь своего… вы добьетесь… Да, - подумал. Тайные операции! - ТРАНСТЕКСТ вышел из строя? - Я хотел бы составить официальную жалобу городским властям. Глядя на оживающий монитор, что на Нагасаки сбросили плутониевую бомбу, каков следующий шаг, на потрепанной веревке раскачивалась серебряная курильница размером с холодильник. Tales Of The Trades: A Presentation Of Facts Concerning The Making Of Articles In Everyday Use Reviews - Я там. На экране ВР у входа толпились и множились хакеры, чтобы кольцо взяли. Я грохнулся на землю - такова цена, который нельзя было себе даже представить. Метрах в пятистах сзади в снопе искр на шоссе выкатило такси. ГЛАВА 93 Причастие. About Tales Of The Trades: A Presentation Of Facts Concerning The Making Of Articles In Everyday Use Writer Does America have a common song? Learn more about the history of the month on our blog. Distinguished scholar-teachers Amy and Leon Kass demonstrate how short stories, speeches, and songs can be used to enhance civic education and how a pedagogical approach that stresses learning through inquiry can make primary sources come alive for students of all ages. It should be valuable for teachers, students, parents, and readers of all kinds. Curriculum Library Book Buy the Book. Browse The Curriculum. Guelzo Ambrose Bierce Amy A. Ross Billy Collins Booker T. Eliot Charles W. Harwood Christopher G. Memminger Claude C. Eisenhower E. Aldrin Jr. Edwin Markham Edwin P. Cohan George S. Patton Jr. George W. Kelly John F. Kennedy John Fiske John G. Foraker Joseph Bottum Joseph H. Mary Antin Mary B. Lowater Noemie Emery O. Henry Oliver Wendell Holmes Jr. Oliver Wendell Holmes Sr. Omar N. Bradley Oscar Hijuelos Pat C. Ambrose Stephen L. Barnes William H.
In former years the manufacturers had all the operations incidental to the manufacture of clothing, except the cutting, done outside of their own places of business. The unmade garments were distributed among many operators who returned them when completed. The result was that almost every garment had faults, due to errors in judgment or unskilled workmanship, and there was a deplorable lack of uniformity in tailoring and fit. Formerly, too, before processes were perfected so that the high grade product of the present day might be achieved, very little of the finest of woolen fabrics was used in the factory production of men's clothing. But as processes were gradually improved, and as, con- sequently, garments which came more and more to meet the approval of the discerning buyer were turned out, a better class of fabrics came to be used. To-day, the best factories cut the highest grade of worsteds and woolens. The Creation of Women's Garments T is a recognized fact that American women are among the best-dressed in the world. They seem to know intuitively what is right, they wear their clothes well, and they have that indefinable something known as good taste. This being so, it follows naturally that the manufacturer of women's garments who can successfuly cater to the fastidi- ous taste of American womankind, who can follow the mad turning of the wheel of fashion, must carry into the conduct of his business ability of a high order. In the manufacture of women's cloaks and suits, skirts and waists, Philadelphia holds a leading position, volume and character of produc- tion considered. Side by side with the great textile mills which have formed the corner-stone on which rests the city's fame as a manufacturing centre, has grown up this closely -allied industry. Taking the product of the loom, the many establishments devoted to this branch of manu- facture fashion it into garments which have a distinctive reputation throughout the retail trade of the country. In the manufacture of cloaks and suits Philadelphia has advanced by rapid bounds. In the year , when the industry was in its infancy, there were in Philadelphia but two concerns, employing approximately hands. Little more than a quarter of a century has elapsed, yet the industry has expanded to times the dimensions it had attained in the Centennial Year. There are to-day in Philadelphia manu- facturers, giving employment to upward of 15, hands. There is evidence of the steady advance of this industry in the fact that the limit of price which American women are willing to pay for a ready- made garment has steadily increased. With the improvement of processes, and the raising of the standard of quality and style, there has been a steady encroach- ment of the ready-made garment upon the domain of the custom-made. The general process of the making of a cloak or a suit follows closely 43 44 The Creation of Women's Garments that of the manufacture of men's clothing. Man, however, is not a creature of brilliant plumage, and in one of these establishments, we see a much greater range of fabrics and colorings. It is not the designer who has ideas that alone makes for the success of the establishment; but it is in a far greater degree the one who can see the commercial possibilities of an idea, and who can select from the multitude of designs those which will please the fastidious woman. None the less, the designer is the basis of it all. In making the original pattern from which the garment is to arise, the designer makes but a single size, that is, Then this cardboard pattern is passed on to the pattern-makers, who draft upon it a regular line of sizes. The material to be cut is "laid up," fold above fold, as in the mak- ing of men's clothes, and the pattern is marked out on the upper layer. It is the anomaly of the industry, that in the heat of summer the cutter and the tailor are handling the heaviest kerseys, meltons, heavy cheviots, The Creation of Women's Garments 45 and broadcloths, that are to keep off December chill, while in winter, the delicate fabrics for summer wear are passing through the process of manufacture mohairs, flannels, linens and serges. Now that the pattern is marked upon the cloth, the electrically driven circular knife is passed along the lines, and in a twinkling the material is reduced to the many pieces that enter into the garment. One of each part must now be tied into a bundle, and the cut garment is passed along to the tailor, who puts them all together. Then comes the pressing, the fitting upon living models, and finally, the most rigid inspection for the slightest flaw. If a mistake is detected, it must be righted before the garment goes to the purchaser. But in this line the industrial life of Philadelphia has been strengthened by many incomers from other centres. In this, as forcibly as in any branch, is demonstrated the superior advantages which Philadelphia possesses as an industrial 4 6 The Creation of Women's Garments centre. Realizing the position enjoyed by Philadelphia, cloak and suit manufacturers have come here, and have established factories that have thrived alongside of those that were distinctively Philadelphian. Philadelphia is known as a city of homes; its working people are thrifty, and it has seldom to contend in this line with the labor diffi- culties encountered elsewhere. As the taste of the public has become steadily more exacting, the Philadelphia establishments have as steadily improved and diversified the character of their production. The great variety and the elaborate styles that have come in require the most painstaking and accurate designing and work to produce styles sufficiently fine for the exclusive dress of the United States trade. The Story of An Eiderdown Sack ROM the raw greasy wool as it comes from the sheep, to the brightly colored eiderdown sack, is a far reach; yet in the knit goods industry as it is in Philadelphia, every one of the many intervening steps is to be seen under a single immense roof. The knitting of such goods as eiderdown and sweaters is a distinct and important industry, and one in which the most intricate machines have been devised to take the place of the old, laborious hand stitch of our grandmothers' day. The busy housewife of half a century ago would have regarded as one of the seven wonders a machine that should take not hundreds but thousands of stitches a minute, and that would turn out the knitted fabric at the astonishing rate that it is deliv- ered from or.
Recommend
More recommend
