Nonlinear wave interaction for broad-banded, open seas – deterministic and stochastic theory Raphael Stuhlmeier (based on joint work with David Andrade and Michael Stiassnie) 11. March 2019
Structure of this talk: 1. Linear theory and the energy density spectrum 2. Nonlinear wave-wave interaction 3. Stochastic evolution equations
The (linear) water-wave problem ∇ 2 φ = 0 on − h < z < 0 η t = φ z on z = 0 φ t + g η = 0 on z = 0 φ z = 0 on z = − h .
The (linear) water-wave problem Velocity potential ∇ 2 φ = 0 on − h < z < 0 η t = φ z on z = 0 φ t + g η = 0 on z = 0 φ z = 0 on z = − h .
The (linear) water-wave problem Velocity potential ∇ 2 φ = 0 on − h < z < 0 η t = φ z on z = 0 φ t + g η = 0 on z = 0 φ z = 0 on z = − h . Free surface
The (linear) water-wave problem Velocity potential Fluid domain ∇ 2 φ = 0 on − h < z < 0 η t = φ z on z = 0 φ t + g η = 0 on z = 0 φ z = 0 on z = − h . Free surface
The Water-Wave Problem Linear solution The linear solutions are η = A k sin( kx − ω t ) φ = A ω k cos( kx − ω t )cosh( k ( h + z )) sinh( kh ) with ω 2 = gk tanh( kh ) . Yielding a time-averaged total energy E ∝ A 2 .
To describe a real sea-state, To describe a real sea-state, To describe a real sea-state, To describe a real sea-state, To describe a real sea-state, To describe a real sea-state, To describe a real sea-state, To describe a real sea-state, To describe a real sea-state, To describe a real sea-state, To describe a real sea-state, To describe a real sea-state, To describe a real sea-state, To describe a real sea-state, To describe a real sea-state, To describe a real sea-state, To describe a real sea-state, we need waves of many different frequencies we need waves of many different frequencies we need waves of many different frequencies we need waves of many different frequencies we need waves of many different frequencies we need waves of many different frequencies we need waves of many different frequencies we need waves of many different frequencies we need waves of many different frequencies we need waves of many different frequencies we need waves of many different frequencies we need waves of many different frequencies we need waves of many different frequencies we need waves of many different frequencies we need waves of many different frequencies we need waves of many different frequencies we need waves of many different frequencies η 1 = A 1 sin( k 1 x − ω 1 t ) η 1 = A 1 sin( k 1 x − ω 1 t ) η 1 = A 1 sin( k 1 x − ω 1 t ) η 1 = A 1 sin( k 1 x − ω 1 t ) η 1 = A 1 sin( k 1 x − ω 1 t ) η 1 = A 1 sin( k 1 x − ω 1 t ) η 1 = A 1 sin( k 1 x − ω 1 t ) η 1 = A 1 sin( k 1 x − ω 1 t ) η 1 = A 1 sin( k 1 x − ω 1 t ) η 1 = A 1 sin( k 1 x − ω 1 t ) η 1 = A 1 sin( k 1 x − ω 1 t ) η 1 = A 1 sin( k 1 x − ω 1 t ) η 1 = A 1 sin( k 1 x − ω 1 t ) η 1 = A 1 sin( k 1 x − ω 1 t ) η 1 = A 1 sin( k 1 x − ω 1 t ) η 1 = A 1 sin( k 1 x − ω 1 t ) η 1 = A 1 sin( k 1 x − ω 1 t ) η 2 = A 2 sin( k 2 x − ω 2 t ) η 2 = A 2 sin( k 2 x − ω 2 t ) η 2 = A 2 sin( k 2 x − ω 2 t ) η 2 = A 2 sin( k 2 x − ω 2 t ) η 2 = A 2 sin( k 2 x − ω 2 t ) η 2 = A 2 sin( k 2 x − ω 2 t ) η 2 = A 2 sin( k 2 x − ω 2 t ) η 2 = A 2 sin( k 2 x − ω 2 t ) η 2 = A 2 sin( k 2 x − ω 2 t ) η 2 = A 2 sin( k 2 x − ω 2 t ) η 2 = A 2 sin( k 2 x − ω 2 t ) η 2 = A 2 sin( k 2 x − ω 2 t ) η 2 = A 2 sin( k 2 x − ω 2 t ) η 2 = A 2 sin( k 2 x − ω 2 t ) η 2 = A 2 sin( k 2 x − ω 2 t ) η 2 = A 2 sin( k 2 x − ω 2 t ) η 2 = A 2 sin( k 2 x − ω 2 t ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . η n = A n sin( k n x − ω n t ) η n = A n sin( k n x − ω n t ) η n = A n sin( k n x − ω n t ) η n = A n sin( k n x − ω n t ) η n = A n sin( k n x − ω n t ) η n = A n sin( k n x − ω n t ) η n = A n sin( k n x − ω n t ) η n = A n sin( k n x − ω n t ) η n = A n sin( k n x − ω n t ) η n = A n sin( k n x − ω n t ) η n = A n sin( k n x − ω n t ) η n = A n sin( k n x − ω n t ) η n = A n sin( k n x − ω n t ) η n = A n sin( k n x − ω n t ) η n = A n sin( k n x − ω n t ) η n = A n sin( k n x − ω n t ) η n = A n sin( k n x − ω n t )
Random-phase & amplitude description of the sea-surface Practically: view the free surface as a stochastic process η ( t ) = ∑ a i cos( ω i t + φ i ) . i
Random-phase & amplitude description of the sea-surface Practically: view the free surface as a stochastic process η ( t ) = ∑ a i cos( ω i t + φ i ) . i ◮ The spectrum F E { η 2 } allows the calculation of important characteristics of the sea-state, like significant wave height, important e.g. for engineering of marine structures
What is a spectrum? Spectral density for Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum with H m0 = 1 m, T p = 5 s 0.07 fp = 1.3 [rad/s] 0.06 0.05 S(w) [m 2 s / rad] 0.04 0.03 0.02 0.01 0 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 Frequency [rad/s]
Narrow vs. broad spectrum E(f) η (t) f t E(f) η (t) f t E(f) η (t) f t
Homogeneity/Stationarity η 1 (t) η 2 (t) η 3 (t) η 4 (t) η k (t 0 ) η k (t 0 + τ ) η k (t) t 0 t 0 + τ
Homogeneity/Stationarity
The spectrum is a single characterization The spectrum is a single characterization The spectrum is a single characterization The spectrum is a single characterization The spectrum is a single characterization The spectrum is a single characterization The spectrum is a single characterization The spectrum is a single characterization The spectrum is a single characterization The spectrum is a single characterization The spectrum is a single characterization The spectrum is a single characterization The spectrum is a single characterization The spectrum is a single characterization The spectrum is a single characterization The spectrum is a single characterization The spectrum is a single characterization for a (statistically) unchanging sea for a (statistically) unchanging sea for a (statistically) unchanging sea for a (statistically) unchanging sea for a (statistically) unchanging sea for a (statistically) unchanging sea for a (statistically) unchanging sea for a (statistically) unchanging sea for a (statistically) unchanging sea for a (statistically) unchanging sea for a (statistically) unchanging sea for a (statistically) unchanging sea for a (statistically) unchanging sea for a (statistically) unchanging sea for a (statistically) unchanging sea for a (statistically) unchanging sea for a (statistically) unchanging sea
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