Wool Fibre Innovation OPTIM Technology Dr David Phillips CSIRO - PowerPoint PPT Presentation

Wool Fibre Innovation OPTIM Technology Dr David Phillips CSIRO Textile and Fibre Technology

Drivers for Wool Fibre Innovation § Changing consumer and market needs § Finer, lighter yarns and fabrics § Softness and low prickle required § Reduced demand for >21 µ m wools § Product Innovation § Challenge: How to make wool finer? Fibre transformation provides major scope for product innovation. § Solution (1): Breed finer wools (5 years of Fibre transformation is the most radical form of innovation breeding for 1 µ m) § Solution (2): Drought conditions What is Innovation? “ Make the strange familiar or § Solution (3): Fibre modification/transformation make the familiar strange ” G.K.Chesterton

The supportive CSIRO R&D environment in the 1980s § Radical innovation encouraged § ‘ Fibre modification underpins fundamental innovation. ’ § Broad skill base at Geelong: § wool physics and chemistry know-how § machine design and building skills § fibre-to-fabric facilities § fibre-to-fabric know-how. § Strong support from wool R&D funding body.

Wool fibre is extensible § Data for 18.7 µ m 18.7 µ m wool wool fibres (3.5 dTex) 10 Fibre Stress (cN/tex) 8 6 wet 4 2 0 0 20 40 60 Fibre Stretch (% )

Fibre diameter decreases with extension Effect of Fibre Extension on Diameter 25 20 Fibre diameter (µm) 15 10 5 0 0 20 40 60 80 100 Fibre Extension %

Wool fibre is extensible § Extensibility depends on: § moisture content of fibre § temperature § level of broken disulphide bonds (thiols) § needs reducing agents.

Wool fibres can be set § Setting chemistry is well-known. § Wool fibres can be set in bending, extension or when twisted § Two separate setting processes can apply: § glass transition temperature (cohesive) § thiol-disulphide interchange

Setting of wool § Glass transition temperature § Cohesive (released in cold water) § e.g., wrinkles in trousers. § Thiol-disulphide interchange § Temporary (released in hot water at 70°C) § stability of a wool fabric surface after pressing using mild steaming conditions (e.g. 87°C) § treat a freshly spun yarn in steam at 87°C for several minutes. § Permanent (stable to hot water at 95°C) § stability of a wool fabric surface after pressure decatising at 110°C § bend and hold a fabric in boiling water for one hour § extend and hold a fibre in boiling water for one hour

The Challenge § How to extend and set fibres in practice? § What were the consequences? § What were/are the opportunities?

Stretching of fibres § Too difficult to stretch fibres separately. § Stretch against twist provides fibre cohesion and control. § Stretching of slivers using false twist developed.

Stretching of fibres § Too difficult to stretch fibres separately. § Stretch against twist provides fibre cohesion and control. § Stretching of slivers using false twist developed.

Commercial Optim plant Woolmark/Andar commercial plant Productivity: ~ 30-40 kg/hr 6 machines globally (including 5 Andar machines)

Setting of extended wool fibres Temporary or permanent set possible. § Stress relaxation occurs in stretched fibres. § Reducing agent generates thiols. § Thiols aid the relaxation process by thiol-disulphide interchange. § Oxidation step rebuilds disulphides. § Time and temperature parameters important. § Choice of conditions produces temporary or permanent set.

Commercial Optim plant heating stretch set

Optim TM fibres § At present, two fibre types allow product innovation: § OPTIM TM fine – permanent set § OPTIM TM max – temporary set.

The OPTIM TM fine process WOOL SLIVER (e.g., 19 µ m) TWIST STRETCH PERMANENTLY SET OPTIM TM fine FIBRE (e.g., 15.5 µ m)

Cross-sectional shape of OPTIM TM fine Parent Wool OPTIM TM fine fibres

Fibre structure Wool OPTIM TM fine Beta keratin Alpha keratin diffraction pattern diffraction pattern (silk-like)

Optim TM Fine Fibres Fibre length distribution with % stretch 6000 § Benefits 5000 Extension (0%) § Lustrous, silk-like, glitter 16 Extension (20%) 4000 Extension (40%) 14 § Longer 16 Extension (60%) Number of fibres 0.5% c.f. 2.0% 3000 Percentage of Fibres (%) 12 14 Fibre Tenacity(cN/Tex) Extension (80%) § Stronger > 30 µ m Extension (100%) 12 10 2000 parent § Prickle reduced 10 19.3 micron 8 8 1000 § Applies to all wools Tenacity treated 6 cN/Tex 16.4 micron 6 ~30% § (and all animal fibres) 0 4 4 0 50 100 150 200 250 300 350 2 2 -1000 Fibre length (mm) 0 0 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 0 20 40 60 80 Fibre Diameter ( µ m) Fibre Stretch (% )

Optim TM fine properties Disadvantages 2.5 Low wet modulus § 2 Fibre Stiffness (N/Tex) affects top and package dyeing § 1.5 Dry stiffness more care needed in finishing § 1 poor wrinkling behaviour § Wet stiffness 0.5 0 0 20 40 60 80 Fibre Stretch (% )

OPTIM TM fine fibre properties Optim™ Wool Viscose Silk Fine Linear density 2.3 3.7 1.7 1.2 (dTex) Tenacity 14.5 11.5 22-26 39 (cN/Tex) Extensibility 19 38 20-25 18 (%) Wet modulus 51 95-100 40-50 220 (cN/Tex)

The OPTIM TM max process WOOL SLIVER TWIST STRETCH TEMPORARY SET OPTIM TM max FIBRE Retractable wool fibre ~ 25%

Bulk generation in yarn OPTIM TM max fibre Wool Blend as top Spin Release yarn in hot water

Yarn bulk Wool with Optim Max Normal wool yarn

Yarn and fabric bulk (wool with Optim™ max) Yarn bulk Fabric bulk Fabric weight Yarn count (Tex) (cm 3 /g) (cm 3 /g) (g/m 2 ) Wool R75/2 12 3.5 287 Wool with Optim™ R74/2 17 6.3 225 max (40%) Wool R478/3/3 6 7.8 Wool with Optim™ R435/3/3 12 10.5 max (40%)

Optim TM max properties Benefits: § Retractable § Generates bulk when blended § Good for ‘ warm without weight ’ products § Basis for further product innovation. Disadvantages: § Extra relaxation process required in yarn processing.

Commercial position § Process patented § Woolmark was sole licensee for manufacture and sale of Optim machines now part of AWI merger . § Detailed technology transfer packages provided to Woolmark from CSIRO § Fibre to fabric processing advice available § Optim™ machines are operating in China and Japan. § Arcana machine operating in Australia.

Further developments of Optim Currently Optim demand is limited by supply, fibre cost and performance issues. The following will enhance the opportunity for Optim products: § reduce cost of production § improve wet fibre and fabric properties § develop new fibre products

Black box approach to fibre modification § Modify process to engineer wool fibres for unique product applications. § Optim example: Tenacity, Elongation & 40 § fibre tenacity 30 Tenacity § elongation to break Crimp cN/tex 20 § crimp Elongation to 10 break % § range of fibre 0 types possible. Crimp% 0 20 40 60 80 % Stretch

Ancient thoughts on problem solving ‘By always thinking unto them, I keep the subject constantly before me and wait till the first dawnings open little by little into the full light.’ Sir Isaac Newton (1642-1727)

Final word on innovation Product innovation is largely a process of problem solving combined with passion and persistence, but, above all, arises from the need to think and rethink about needs, problems and opportunities. David Phillips, 2007

Next § Questions § Visit to Optim™ prototype plant § Show of Optim™ products