THANK YOU TO OUR 2018 MMC ROUND TABLE SPONSORS: PARTNER SUPPORTER
#TextileExchange18 Agenda
#TextileExchange18 Update 2018 Membership Industry Engagement Knowledge Building
#TextileExchange18 #TextileExchange18 MMC LANDSCAPE Nicole Lambert Textile Exchange
#TextileExchange18 Biodiversity Climate change Air and water Human rights Air and water pollution Water and soil pollution pollution H 2 SO 4 NAOH CS 2 Repro-toxic 2 Neurotoxic 1
#TextileExchange18 ? ? ? ? Traceability Biodiversity Climate change Air and water Air and water Human rights pollution pollution Water and soil pollution H 2 SO 4 NAOH CS 2 Repro-toxic 2 Neurotoxic 1
#TextileExchange18 FEEDSTOCK H 2 SO 4 NAOH CS 2 Repro-toxic 2 Neurotoxic 1 PROCESSING
#TextileExchange18 Traceability Biodiversity Climate change Air and water Air and water Human rights pollution pollution Water and soil pollution H 2 SO 4 NAOH CS 2 Repro-toxic 2 Neurotoxic 1
#TextileExchange18 Biodiversity Climate change Human rights Feedstock substitution Water and soil pollution Air and water Air and water pollution pollution H 2 SO 4 NAOH CS 2 Alternative feedstock Repro-toxic 2 – alternative virgin feedstock Neurotoxic 1 – recycled materials – agriculture residues
#TextileExchange18 Traceability: chain of custody certi fj cation Feedstock: better management Biodiversity Climate change practices Human rights Water and soil pollution REDUCED IMPACT Air and water Air and water pollution pollution H 2 SO 4 NAOH CS 2 No illegal logging No logging in endangered forests Repro-toxic 2 Neurotoxic 1 Better Forest management practices
#TextileExchange18 Processing: substitution Air and water pollution Air and water Biodiversity Climate change pollution REDUCED IMPACT Human rights Water and soil pollution LYOCELL H 2 SO 4 NAOH CS 2 Less harmful substances Ex: NMO Repro-toxic 2 Neurotoxic 1
#TextileExchange18 Processing: better chemical management Air and water pollution Air and water pollution Biodiversity Climate change REDUCED IMPACT Human rights REDUCED IMPACT Water and soil pollution Closed Loop H 2 SO 4 NAOH CS 2 National emission regulations BAT Repro-toxic 2 Neurotoxic 1 Closed loop system Chemical management systems – > Internal control - Monitoring
#TextileExchange18 June: Changing Market: Fashion brands Dirty Fashion report Changing Market: Lyocell REACH SAC Roadmap Chinese Environmental ZDHC: legislation enforcement Viscose/ integration Greenpeace Acetate DETOX IPE: Blue Map Modal China: CV EU BAT EU Ecolabel 2013 1987 1993 1994 1999 2017 2017 1884 1950 2006 2007 2014 1972 2010 2011 2015 2017 2018 PEFC Rainforest Canopy UN strategic alliance plan for forests SFI FSC Canopy Style VF: Source September Campaign maps CU: Connected Fashion brands
#TextileExchange18 About Sustainable Textile Solutions Sustainable Textile Solutions holds extensive knowledge of dyes and chemicals combined with longstanding expertise on wet processing production techniques. The dedicated STS team is passionate about environmental protection and creating impact through its assignments. STS -Team credentials: • 3000 + chemical management assessments • 100 + WWTP Performance Functionality Assessments • 1000 + persons trained on Chemical Management • 200 + Root Cause Analysis • 40+ countries covered • ZDHC Contributor and accredited Training Provider • Higg FEM 3.0 Generalist & Specialist Verifier
#TextileExchange18 Viscose Production Sites Visited in Asia by STS • China • Taiwan • Thailand • Indonesia • India
#TextileExchange18 Sustainability Initiatives per Production Stage FIBRE PRODUCTION WOOD PRODUCTION PULP PRODUCTION FSC, PEFC, Ecolabel, Canopy Ecolabel, Higg Index Local Norms, Higg Index Air Emission FSC, PEFC, Ecolabel, Canopy Ecolabel, Higg Index Ecolabel, Higg Index Water use FSC, PEFC, Ecolabel, Canopy Higg Index ZDHC Wastewater FSC, PEFC, Ecolabel, Canopy Higg Index Higg Index Chemical Management FSC, PEFC, Ecolabel, Canopy Higg Index Higg Index Health & Safety
#TextileExchange18 Areas of High Concern per Production Stage WOOD FIBRE PRODUCTION PULP PRODUCTION PRODUCTION Chlorine gas Local ambient air quality not taken in to Sox, NOx, Dust, CO and VOCs consideration, Carbon disulphide and Air Emission N.A. Hydrogen sulphide, Recovery of CS 2 (45-70%) Higg Index, Ecolable Contaminated water source N.A. Water use Availability of water source AOX (Chlorine bleaching) High temperature, AOX, Disinfection process, Dioxins Higher ETP load, Zn, Mn, Co, Cr removal, CN - elimination, Sludge drying, High N.A. Wastewater Coliform, Bacteria survival issue in aeration tank Bulk chemicals contains impurities NPEO’s from utility and ancillary chemicals, (phthalate, APEO & heavy metal) Heavy Metal, Amylamines & PCPs from Dope Chemical Use of pesticides, fertilizers dyed fj bres processing, Bulk chemicals etc. Management contains impurities (phthalate, APEO & heavy metal) Exposure to toxic products and Exposure to toxic products and occupational Handling and Use of occupational hazards, Handling of hazards, Handling of Carbon disulphide, Health & Safety pesticides and fertilizers etc. NaOH, Sodium Sulphide and other NaOH, NMMO, Chromic acid etc., hazardous chemicals
#TextileExchange18 General Challenges Observed • All major production sites were established 50 – 70 years ago. • Facilities' are required to adopt latest BAT norms as per the requirements from the different sustainability initiatives. à Design and area requirements are key challenges in meeting the requirements of Gas Absorption, Membrane Separation, Noncarbon / carbon Absorption techniques.
#TextileExchange18 . Key Challenges Identified in Production • Facilities are designed to meet local requirements rather than more complex requirements. • Lack of a unified global norm to follow and adapt weakens business case for major investments. • Maximum recovery of the non productive outputs requires optimisation of production processes. • Optimise water usage in production by maintaining effluent load consistent based on current design. • Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD) not adopted by the industry.
#TextileExchange18 Key Improvements Implemented in Collaboration with STS Experts • Implementation of a credible Chemical management system (procurement policies, storage management, risk assessment, hotspot identification, trainings, Non-productive output mapping etc.) • Reduction of Zn from the wastewater by alkaline precipitation followed by sulphide precipitation, anaerobic sulphate and H 2 S reduction process. • Removal of Cr through precipitation and separation techniques.
#TextileExchange18 Key Improvements Implemented in Collaboration with STS Experts • Control or elimination of chemical and environmental risks through thorough holistic analysis of chemical usage in input, process and output (e.g. NPEOs, Amylamines, AOX, Heavy metals, phthalates, coliform) • Ambient temperature as required for effective aeration process in wastewater achieved through temperature mapping of wastewater from source and heat recovery from heat exchangers.
#TextileExchange18 Next Steps: Aim for Closed-loop Manufacturing Standards & Regulations ● Key chemicals recycled through a closed-loop system include: o Carbon disulphide (CS 2 ), which needs to be contained and recovered; o Hydrogen sulphide (H 2 S), recovered as sulphuric acid (H 2 SO 4 ); o Zinc sulphate (ZnSO 4 ), recovered from waste water as zinc sulphide (ZnS) and then recycled as zinc sulphate (ZnSO 4 ). ● Condense the exhaust air from spinning process to recover CS 2 and recycle it back into the process (EU BAT) (European Commission, 2007). ● Recover CS 2 from exhaust air streams through adsorption on activated carbon (EU BAT). ● Apply exhaust air desulphurisation processes based on catalytic oxidation with H 2 SO 4 production (EU BAT). ● Recover sulphate from spinning baths (EU BAT). Source : Roadmap towards responsible Viscose and Modal fj bre manufacturing - Changing market
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#Tex%leExchange18 UNECE/FAO Forestry and Timber SecAon Forest for Fashion – Fashion for Forests FORESTS Birgit Lia Fain (Altmann) Associate Economic Affairs Officer 22 October 2018, Milan, Italy
#Tex%leExchange18 Agenda FORESTS FORESTS 1. Who are we? 2. Why are we involved? 3. What exactly do we do? 4. Opportuni%es? 34
1. Who are we? 35
#Tex%leExchange18 Economic Commission for Europe FORESTS FORESTS … was established in 1947 … is one of five UN regional commissions … facilitates greater economic integraAon and cooperaAon among its 56 member States 36
#Tex%leExchange18 UNECE/FAO Forestry and Timber SecAon FORESTS FORESTS Regional Scope The forest in the UNECE region covers: • 41 % of the global total • 85% cer%fied area • 60% industrial roundwood 37
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