Introduction to the World of Perfume at the London College of - PowerPoint PPT Presentation

Introduction to the World of Perfume at the London College of Fashion The aims of this session are: To inspire you to enjoy your sense of smell • To give you a taste or sniff of what the students study in the • perfumery unit By the end of the session you will be able to: • List at least 6 odour and fragrance families • Give 2 reasons why individuals perceive odours differently • Create an harmonious perfume

Do you feel odour perception is connected more to the • thinking logical brain or to the emotional feeling brain? Is odour connected to choosing a mate in any way? • Is odour evocative of past experience? • Do new born babies recognise their mothers by sight or • smell? Are mothers able to recognise their babies by smell as • well as sight? How old is the perfume industry? • What are the roots of the word perfume • How many kilos of rose petals does it take to make 1Kg • of rose absolute?

Perfume in Literature 4

The 1 st year under graduates on the MSc in • Cosmetic Science take perfumery as part of a unit with marketing 2 nd year students create a shampoo fragrance to • use in their hair care project

What are these botanicals?

Lemon Citrus Medica Limonum Citrus fruit • Grown in Sicily • Cold extraction techniques • The odour of the fresh • essential oil is mouth wateringly close to the original

Cold extraction of citrus oils

Rosemary Rosmarinus Officinalis Herb • Reputed to aid memory • In ancient Greece students • would rub rosemary on their foreheads before exams to help them remember 10

Rosemary Rosmarinus Officinalis Love charm • • In the Greek orthodox tradition rosemary is said to help couples remember their wedding vows • Rosemary wreaths are worn by bride and groom in the wedding ceremony Alpha and beta wave patterns in • the brain are affected by rosemary • Most people feel more alert but calm at the same time 11

Some academic studies confirming the effects of rosemary oil A study involving 40 participants looked at the EEG activity, alertness and mood after an aromatherapy session using lavender oil on one group and rosemary oil on another. The rosemary group had reduced frontal alpha and beta power suggesting increased alertness, they reported feeling more alert and more relaxed. When completing mathematical computations the rosemary group were faster but not more accurate. (Diego et al, 1998) A study with 140 participants looked at the effects on memory of lavender oil, rosemary oil and no odour (the control group). The rosemary group showed overall improved quality of memory but with an impairment of speed compared to the control. (Moss et al, 2003) Rosemary oil said to have a positive effect on mood, concentration and memory for 10 subjects. (Svoboda et al, 2002)

Rosemary in perfumery Rosmarinus Officinalis Herbal note • Part of the classic eau de cologne • Used frequently in fragrances for • men Eau Dynamisante, by Clarins, launched in 1987 4711, by Muelhens, launched in 1792

Clove buds Eugenia Caryophyllus Spice • Essential oil is made by water • distillation Photographs by Tony Burfield taken 21 st century in Zanzibar

Clove buds Eugenia Caryophyllus eugenol Spice • Essential oil is made by water • distillation Contains 75-80% eugenol • Eugenol is one of the commonly • reported EU allergens Photographs by Tony Burfield 15

Distillation invented in Arabia • The Arabs invented the alembic still • Distillation is mentioned around 200 – 300 CE but the alembic still with a more efficient condensing system is invented around the 11 th or 12 th century CE • Words beginning with al- are derived from Arabic Arabic manuscript held in • “al” is the article or “the” in the British Library showing an alembic still Arabic 16

Distillation invented in Arabia Translation of the text in the manuscript by LCF students: To o my y son son, You ou sh shou ould kn know ow that that if if you your r fl flam ame is is too too stro strong the the water ater will ill rise rise yel yellow to to where here col collect cted d an and d will ill be be ru ruin ined. d. When hen you your flam flame is is uti tilized in in the the prop proper way ay, , you you will ill obta obtain in wha hat t you you need need, , ha havi ving ng the the will ill an and d su suppo pport t of of Arabic manuscript held in God od. . The he dist distil illate te sh shou ould be be kep kept t aw away ay the British Library from from su sunli nlight t until ntil need needed; ; then then take take the the showing an alembic still oil oil from from the the wate ater. r. 17

dianthus caryophyllus Sweet William dianthus barbatus Clove or buffalo currant Viburnum Burkwoodii Ribes odorata

Fragrances including Clove oil Opium, Yves St Laurent , 1977 Old Spice, Shulton , 1938

Star Anise 八角 Bājiǎo Illicium Verum Star anise is used in • many flavourings including liquorice Part of the anisic note • often found in male fine fragrance

Frankincense or Olibanum resin Boswellia Carterii Frankincense oozes from the • stems of a bush and hardens in the sun The bushes grow in arid regions of • Yemen and Southern Arabia In ancient times there was an • incense trade route Wars were fought over the control • of frankincense trade Censer 3 rd century BC Shabwa, Yemen British museum collection 21

Pink Pepper Shinus Molle Relatively new perfumery • material (1990s onwards) Extraction method uses • liquid CO 2 • under high pressure • in costly equipment • made of 20mm thick • stainless steel 22

Fragrance including Pink Pepper Eau des Merveilles, Hermes, 2004 23

The sense of smell Odour Families History of Fragrance Fragrance Creation Natural ingredients Synthetic Ingredients trend setters The Structure of the Perfume Industry

Smell signals are sent directly to the limbic brain Smell can trigger the reliving of a complete experience including emotions and feelings

Respect • Specific anosmia • Thresholds • Attraction – Finding a mate MHC – major histocompatibility complex

Some Important Odour Families/Notes Woody Floral Balsamic Fruity Aldehydic Citrus Aquatic/Ozonic Green Mossy Spicy 27

Odour Families Introduction activity Smell the 6 fragrance ingredients A-F and allocate each to one of the odour families below: Floral Woody Fruity Green Citrus Aquatic/ozonic 28

Odour Families Introduction activity Made by cold expression A Citrus Bergamot oil A bridge in perfumery between the citrus and floral notes Occurs widely in nature including in B Green cis-3-hexenol fresh cut grass, bananas and strawberries Some people perceive as C Aquatic Calone marine others water melon or fruity D Fruity Amyl acetate Like pear drops a type of confectionary or nail varnish remover It takes 2 tonnes of rose petals to E Floral Rose oil make 1 Kg of rose oil Reminiscent of sharpening pencils F Woody Cedarwood oil Virginian

Odour perception varies from individual to individual Below are some entries in the Odour Recognition Journals of students class of 2014 Each entry describes the same ingredient Calone a) Watermelon; fresh, sweet; reminds me of a summer picnic with watermelon to eat b) Smells like watermelons and cucumbers; fresh, watery, aquatic feel c) Watermelon, marine d) Watery; fresh, light; reminds me of cucumber e) Fresh ozonic; reminds me of sea shore, shells, fish, marine life f) Ocean, salty, fishy; matt, wet; reminds me of a smelly beach, not pleasant 30

Odour perception varies from individual to individual What is the odour of Calone for you? Do you perceive more than one aspect? Watermelon Cucumber Marine Aquatic – fresh Seaweed Fishy - pleasant unpleasant 31

Influence of Synthetics in 20 th Century Perfumery Calone New West for him, IUPAC name 7-Methylbenzo(1,4)dioxepin-3-one Aramis, 1988 Functional group Cyclic diether and ketone Occurrence Not found in nature L’Eau d’Issey, Odour Family Aquatic Issey Miyake, 1992 Perfumery uses Fresh ozonic, marine note and water melon. Calone is evident throughout the fragrance profile Trend setter Calone was patented in 1966 but waited until the 1990s to create a new fashion in fragrance: Acqua di Giò Giorgio Armani 1996 32

Perfume Creation Accords Top Notes Middle or Heart Notes Base Notes

Perfume Creation A perfume is a harmonious bend of aromatic ingredients Fragrance is to smell, as music is to noise A typical fragrance contains between 20 and 100 ingredients

Perfume Creation The creative perfumer knows the odours of each ingredient and will be able to predict what a blend might smell like A fragrance house will have between 1000 and 6000 ingredients

Ingredients are found from every part of plants and from all over the world Flowers Resins Twigs and Branches Fruit Bark Seeds Heart wood Leaves Grasses Roots Rhizomes

Vetivert oil Vetiveria Zizanoides INCI name Geographic Origins Indonesia, Haiti, Bourbon, India Botanical part Root Extract Oil Vetivert root Odour family Woody Vetivert bundles Vetivert Distillation 37