Integumentary Perfections Curtis Baade Shamara Manora
Agenda 1. The Skin 1. The Skin 1. The Skin 1. The Skin 2. Pro 2. Product Design uct Design 2. Pro 2. Product Design uct Design 3. Eco 3. Economic Analysis omic Analysis 3. Eco 3. Economic Analysis omic Analysis 4. Co 4. Conclusions nclusions 4. Co 4. Conclusions nclusions
The Skin Skin Layers
The Skin The Skin Semi-permeable barrier between body and environment Contains three layers: epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous Source: http: Source: http://cancer.heal //cancer.healthcentersonli thcentersonline.com/skincancer/basalcellca e.com/skincancer/basalcellcarcinoma.cfm cinoma.cfm
Epidermis Epidermis The outermost layer of the epidermis is the stratum corneum Approximately 20 cell layers thick Location in which desquamation occurs Desquamation is the shedding of the top layer of cells in the stratum corneum Approximately 1 layer per day is released Source Source: www.euce : www.eucerim.co.uk im.co.uk
Stratum Corneum Stratum Corneum Contains hydrophilic cells (keratinocytes) surrounded by a hydrophobic lipid bilayer (lipid lamellae) Contains natural moisturizing factors (NMF) which are responsible for the absorption and retention of water. www.ce www.cerave rave.com/barrie om/barrier.htm tm
Effects on Skin Barrier Effects on Skin Barrier Reduced or low water content in the Stratum Corneum results in a compromised barrier (chapping) This compromised barrier must be restored in order to prevent transepidermal water loss Compromised Barrier Compromised Barrier Intact Barrier Intact Barrier Source Source: http: : http://www.cetaphil //www.cetaphil.com.au/ .com.au/importance_ portance_of_your_ski f_your_skin_more n_more.asp .asp
The Skin Skin Disorders
Xerosis (Dry Skin) Natural moisturizers Stratum Corneum are removed Caused by overexposure to water, sun, or cold weather Symptoms include dry, itchy skin Source Source: Uni : University of Cal ersity of California, San F fornia, San Fransico, www.uscf ansico, www.uscf.e .edu du
Ichthyosis Vulgaris Incurable, genetic disorder affecting production and/or desquamation of cells Caused by low water content in Stratum Corneum enzymatic reactions controlling desquamation are inhibited Symptoms include dry, thickened, scaly skin Source Source: Gen : Geneva Foundation for Me va Foundation for Medi dica cal Education and Research, www.gfmer.ch l Education and Research, www.gfmer.ch
The Skin Treatment Therapy
Treatment Strategy Treatment Strategy Three key steps to effectively effectively treat the disorders Promote desquamation Deliver moisturizing agents to underlying skin Restore the skin’s lipid bilayer
Transdermal Diffusion Percutaneous absorption mostly occurs via transcellular diffusion (Pathway 2) Other pathways are Intercellular diffusion (Pathway 1) Diffusion through skin appendages (Pathway 2) keratinocytes lipid lamellae appendage (follicle or 1 2 3 sweat duct) Source: A Geoscience Source: A Geoscience Approa Approach to M ch to Modeling Chemical deling Chemical Tra Transport Through the Skin sport Through the Skin
Moisturizer Formulation Moisturizer Formulation The simplest vehicle for skin moisturizers are emulsions For lotions, oil-in-water emulsions are used Water is the continuous phase Oil is the dispersed phase Source: http: Source: http://www.pg.com/scie //www.pg.com/science/skinc nce/skincare/Skin_tws_101.htm re/Skin_tws_101.htm
Lotion Composition Lotion Composition Lotions have active and inactive ingredients Ingredients are characterized by a combination of properties (e.g. effectiveness, smoothness, thickness, etc.)
Product Design Lotion Composition
Product Regulations Product Regulations Since skin moisturizers are considered cosmetic products, they do not have to adhere to FDA regulations Cosmetics are subject to restrictions on the concentration of certain ingredients determined by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Source Source: http : http: www.cfsan.f www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/cos-206 a.gov/~dms/cos-206.html
Lotion Composition Replenish Skin’s Health Replenish Skin’s Health HUMECTANTS OCCLUSIVES EXFOLIANTS EMOLLIENTS
Lotion Composition Ot Other Lotion Prop r Lotion Propert erties es SOLVENTS PRESERVATIVES FRAGRANCE THICKENERS EMULSIFIER BUFFERS COLOR
Product Design Customer Satisfaction Assessment
Consumer Satisfaction Assessment Consumer Satisfaction Assessment A model was developed to assess the consumer needs The model measures how satisfied the consumer is with the properties of the lotion Consumer rates lotion characteristics correlated to a physical properties = ∑ S w y i i i = − ( 0 100 ) S satisfacti on i = − ( 0 1 ) w weight of property i = − ( 0 100 ) y property satisfacti on i Source Source: http : http://ww //www.ou. ou.edu/class/ch /class/che-design/a-d esign/a-design/Pricing%2 sign/Pricing%20of%20Consume 0of%20Consumer%20Products. r%20Products.pdf
Consumer Surveys Consumer Surveys Consumer surveys were used to determine the satisfaction of the consumer for each property The consumers rated the lotion properties based upon extremes (i.e. very thin to very thick) Consumer ratings were then correlated to the physical properties of the lotion (surface tension, viscosity, etc.) to find consumer satisfaction
Consumer Satisfaction Assessment Consumer Satisfaction Assessment Ordained surveys were completed to determine the best product and the importance of each property. Please indicate your preference preference for each property on the indicated scale (S (Scale of of 1-X) X). With 1 being your desired desired product, and the highest number (X) being your worst worst product. ______________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________ Thickness: Thickness of the Lotion (Scale of 1-4) Thickness: (Scale of 1-4) Extremely Thick:___ ___ Moderately Thick:___ ___ Moderately Thin:___ ___ Very Thin:___ ___ Durabil Durability: The ability for the lotion to wash off or rub off. The Lotion lasts for…(Scal (Scale of 1-7) of 1-7) 30 minutes:___ ___ 1hr:___ ___ 2hrs:___ ___ 3hrs:___ ___ 4hrs:___ ___ 5 hrs:___ ___ 6hrs:___ ___ Absorpti Absorption Rate: on Rate: How long it takes the moisturizing chemicals to officially absorb into the skin (Scale of 1-7) (Scale of 1-7) 1min:___ ___ 2min:___ ___ 4min:___ ___ 5min:___ ___ 6min:___ ___ 8min:___ ___ 10min:___ ___
Survey Results Survey Results Prop Property erty Weight of Property Weight of Property Effectiveness 24.36% Thickness 10.16% Durability 15.19% Absorption Rate 13.92% Smoothness 14.61% Greasiness 11.44% Spreadability 10.31% Study Population: 48 Males, 50 Females, 2 Not Specified, Total = 100
Product Design Property Correlations
Assessed Lotion Properties Assessed Lotion Properties Percutaneous Absorption of Ingredients Spontaneity of the lotion to spread across the skin Apparent Viscosity Spreadability Effectiveness Greasiness Text Text Thickness Smoothness Absorption Text Durability Text Rate Skin Appearance and Feel Skin Appearance and Feel Diffusion Time How easy lotion can be removed from skin
Effectiveness The effectiveness of a lotion is determined by how well the lotion can treat the skin problems associated with Xerosis and Ichthyosis Vulgaris. Severely dry skin Thickened skin Dismantled lipid bilayer Depends on percutaneous absorption modeled by ⎛ ⎞ ⎛ ⎞ π 2 2 D n t ⎜ π − ⎟ ∞ sc ⎜ ⎟ 2 1 C x n x ∑ = − − 2 R L w 1 sin e ⎜ ⎟ sc sc ⎜ ⎟ π ⎜ ⎟ o ⎜ ⎟ C L n L = 1 ⎝ ⎠ n ⎝ ⎠ w sc sc
Effectiveness Effectiveness Consu Consumer R Rating ting Best Product: Best Product: Preference (1), Concentration (0.5) 1 No Skin Scales Present 2 Few Skin Scales Present Consumer Preferences: Adjusted Effectiveness 3 Some Skin Scales Present Amount of Active Ingredients vs. Skin Appearance 4 Skin Moderately Scaly 100.00% 5 5 Skin Very Scaly 80.00% 4 Consumer Satisfaction y = -10x + 6 Consumer Rating 60.00% R 2 = 1 3 40.00% 2 20.00% y = -0.2282x + 1.2699 R 2 = 0.9914 1 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.00% 1 2 3 4 5 Relative Concentration (C/Cw) Consumer Rating
Wetting Wetting is an application of adsorption at a liquid-solid γ = γ − γ θ interface. cos se s e γ = − Wetting is defined as the surface tension of skin emulsion se displacement of one fluid by γ = surface tension of skin s another on a given surface. γ = surface tension of emulsion e Durability and Spreadability θ = contact angle depend on wetting properties For solid surfaces, like the skin, the contact angle of the liquid must determined using Young’s Equation Source: The Handbook of Cosmetic S urce: The Handbook of Cosmetic Scien ience and Technolo e and Technology gy Ima Image Provided From: The Water Break Test e Provided From: The Water Break Test
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