FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS HELIOGEL ™ LECIGEL™ THE VERSATILE GELLING AGENTS
Heliogel ™
Key points • Gelling ingredient with emulsifying properties • With sunflower phospholipids • For innovative gel-cream textures • Polyvalent and universal
Properties of the components • Sodium acrylates copolymer - Thickener - Stable on wide pH range - Resistance to electrolytes - Non-tacky • Sunflower phospholipids & oil - Emulsifier - Hydrating agent • Polyglyceryl-10 stearate - Food grade emulsifier - Transfer of polymer in water phase
Compatibilities Heliogel ™ gelifies from pH 2 to 12 with an optimal viscosity between pH 4 and 8
Compatibilities Effect of Electrolytes Emulsion with 3% HELIOGEL ™ (pH : 5.5-6.0) 120000 Viscosity (mPa.s) 100000 80000 60000 40000 20000 0 -1.8E-16 0.05 0.1 % NaCl Heliogel ™ is compatible with electrolytes
Compatibilities Effect of Ethanol Emulsion with 3% HELIOGEL ™ (pH : 5.5-6.0) 60000 50000 Viscosity (mPa.s) 40000 30000 20000 10000 0 0 5 10 15 20 25 % Ethanol Heliogel ™ is compatible up to 20% ethanol
Sensorial profile • Unique after-feel • Coolness: +9.4 % compared to market reference • Tackiness: -17.5 % compared to market reference
Process • Step 1. Introduce Heliogel ™ into the oil phase
Process • Step 2. Emulsification step. Add the oil phase into the water phase under strong stirring. Mix until the product is smooth and homogeneous.
Process • Aspect at T0
Tolerance studies • Acute Oral Toxicity (2000 mg/Kg dose) (concentration tested: 10%) • Skin Irritation (single patch test) (concentration tested: 10%) • Eye Irritation (agarose gel) (pure product) • Sensibilization (Marzulli-Maibach method) (concentration tested: 10%) • Mutagenicity (AMES test) • Very low UV-light absorbance (290 - 400 nm) - No risk of phototoxicity Excellent Safety Profile
Product information INCI name Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (and) Phospholipids (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Appearance Amber gel Recommended dosage 0.2 - 4 %
Product information Formulation Cold or hot process No pre-dispersion or neutralization Optimum pH 4 - 8 but usable from 2 to 12 Applications • 1 - 3%: Main gelling and • 0.5 - 3% : Viscosity adjuster for all emulsifying agent for gel-creams kind of emulsions • 0.2 - 3%: Stabilizer
Summer Shine Gel-Cream 11.291.01
Lecigel ™
Key points • 2ne generation of gelling ingredient with emulsifying properties • For innovative gel cream textures • Polyvalent and universal • No polyisobutene
Properties of the components • Sodium acrylates copolymer - Thickener - Stable on wide pH range - Compatible with ethanol - Non-tacky • Lecithin - Emulsifier - Hydrating agent
Compatibilities 120000 100000 Viscosity (mPa.s) 80000 60000 40000 20000 0 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 Lecigel ™ gelifies from pH 4 to 8
Compatibilities Lecigel ™ is perfectly adapted to high level of ethanol up to 20%
Sensorial profile Protocol • Sensorial profile by an external expert panel • Lecigel ™ at 1.75% vs. Heliogel ™ at 2.5% • Statistical analysis of the results
Sensorial profile • Similar results on most items • Tendencies: Lecigel ™ is - Less tacky - Less greasy
Advantages of Lecigel ™ compared to other gelling agents • 100% active matter • Easy-to-use, usable at any step of the process • White finished products • With the Phospholipid Touch!
Tolerance studies The toxicological assessment of Lecigel ™ is based on the CIR reports we have about the two ingredients contained in this product • Final Report on the Safety Assessment about Acrylates Copolymer and 33 related cosmetic ingredients Reference: International Journal of Toxicology, 21 (Suppl.3): 1-50, 2002 • Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Lecithin and Hydrogenated lecithin Reference: International Journal of Toxicology, 20 (Suppl.1): 21-45, 2001 Excellent Safety Profile
Process • Method 1. Introduce Lecigel ™ into the oil phase
Process • Method 1. Emulsify Stirring speed must be above 1200 rpm
Process • Method 2. Add Lecigel ™ into water phase Stirring speed must be above 1200 rpm
Process • Method 3. Add Lecigel ™ after emulsion If stirring speed is below 1200 rpm, gelification can take a bit longer
Process • Aspect
Process • Aspect. Final viscosity is reached immediately after manufacturing
Product information INCI name Sodium acrylates copolymer (and) Lecithin Appearance Beige powder Recommended dosage 0.2 - 4 %
Product information Formulation Cold or hot process No pre-dispersion or neutralization Optimum pH 4 - 8 Applications • 0.5-2%: Main gelling and • 0.5-2% : Viscosity adjuster for all emulsifying agent for gel-creams kind of emulsions • 0.1-3%: Stabilizer
Cooling Gel-Cream 9.202.05 C88 2015-12-09
Features and Benefits
SUMMARY * Distributed in France by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
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