FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS ECOGEL ™ FIRST NATURAL GELLING- EMULSIFYING AGENT
Key points • Patented gelling ingredient with emulsifying properties • With soy lysophospholipids • For natural gel-cream textures • Polyvalent and universal INCI name Lysolecithin (and) Sclerotium Gum (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Pullulan
First natural gelling-emulsifying agent Emulsifying properties • Lysolecithin (Hydrolysed lecithin) - Higher HLB value to create smaller droplets and more stable emulsions - Phospholipid touch Gelling properties Combination of 2 polysaccharides • Sclerotium gum + Xanthan gum Texture innovation Synergetic combination with a third polysaccharide • Pullulan - Film-former - Good adhesive properties
Sensorial profile Protocol • Sensorial profile by an external expert panel • 1% Ecogel™ • Statistical analysis of the results
Sensorial profile Ecogel™ characteristics: • Low picking • High slipping • Coolness • No whitening at application • High spreadability • Low tackiness Silicone-like skin feel !
Characteristic property • Low picking
Rheological characteristics • Viscosity is Ecogel ™ concentration-dependant Fonctionality of Ecogel™ depends on its concentration
Compatibilities • Wide range of pH Ecogel™ is stable from pH 3 to 10
Compatibilities • Maximum compatibility with electrolytes Viscosity is not affected by up to 2% of mono or divalent ions
Compatibilities • Compatible with various types of preservatives and additives Rheology and viscosity are not affected by most additives
Compatibilities • Compatible with surfactants
Compatibilities • Compatible with surfactants • Decrease the picking of the formula Shampoo Shampoo without Ecogel™ with Ecogel™ Ecogel™ thickens toiletries and enhances their sensoriality
Compatibilities • Ecogel™ is compatible with all types of oil phase • Ecogel™ at 2% emulsify 10% oil phase • Ecogel™ is compatible with sun filters • As Ecogel™ doesn’t contain acrylate derivatives it is perfectly compatible with pigments and sunscreens • Ecogel™ is compatible with up to 10% ethanol Ecogel™ is the new key ingredient for both natural and conventional formulas
Competitor study • Sensorial profiles by an external expert panel compared to both natural and conventional thickeners • 1% Ecogel™ • Natural competitor = pure sclerotium gum at 0.5% • Synthetic competitors ‐ Acrylates copolymer at 0.15% (C10-30 alkyl acrylates crosspolymer) ‐ Acrylate at 0.5% (Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7) • Statistical analysis of the results
Natural competitor study Gel sensoriality is enhanced and Ecogel™ reduces risk of lumps
Synthetic competitor study • Similar results on most application items! • No differences on: ‐ Brightness ‐ Slipping ‐ Whitening on application ‐ Spreadability ‐ Tacking ‐ Softness ‐ Penetration Skin feel with Ecogel™ is as sophisticated as in synthetic textures
Tolerance studies • Skin Irritation (single patch test) (concentration tested: 4%) • Eye Irritation (concentration tested: 4%) • Phototoxicity Ecotoxicity studies • Biodegradability • Aquatic toxicity Excellent Safety Profile
Product information INCI name Lysolecithin (and) Sclerotium Gum (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Pullulan Appearance Beige powder Recommended dosage 0.3 -2% Ecocert/Cosmos status Registered
Product information Formulation Hot process Hydration step of phospholipids Strong stirring to fully develop the gel Optimum pH 3 - 12 Applications • 1.5 - 2%: Main gelling and • >1% : Stabilizer and viscosity emulsifying agent for gel-creams adjuster for all kind of emulsions • >0.3%: Skin feel enhancer
Process • Step 1. Add Ecogel™ into water phase under mechanical stirring
Process • Step 2. Keep under stirring for 20 minutes minimum to hydrate phospholipids and develop the gel
Process • Step 3. Add oil phase
Process • Step 4. Homogenize at maximum stirring speed
Process • Step 5. Cool down under stirring
Process Final viscosity is reached a few time after manufacturing due to the shear thinning behavior of the gel
Sustainable green process • Green processed ingredients • Lysolecithin obtained by biotechnology from crude lecithin which is a by- product of the food industry • Xanthan gum, sclerotium gum and pullulan obtained from micro- organisms with biotechnological processes • Cold and dry process manufacturing Preservation of natural resources Saved energy Reduced waste
Advantages of Ecogel™ compared to other gelling agents • 100% natural active matter • Easy-to-use • High resistance to electrolytes • Natural gel-creams textures • New natural sensoriality - Silicone-like skin feel !!
Features and Benefits
Ultra Soft Gel-cream 11.059.03 C105 ECO * Distributed in France by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics 2015-12-09
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